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Thread: Panasonic IMR's in ProVari

  1. #11

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    Sorry bert- Ive researched all the batts. Both who these china knockoffs are made by, as well as AW and the like. They all come from 2 sources- sanyo and panasonic. Which coincidentally are now merged into one company. Its a big circle jerk it seems, but quality wise, they all seem to be on equal ground.
    The china knocks off are IMR, or can be ordered anyhow.
    I steer clear of trust and ultrafires. Redilast is also rebranded sanyo btw.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBIgChief View Post
    Sorry bert- Ive researched all the batts. Both who these china knockoffs are made by, as well as AW and the like. They all come from 2 sources- sanyo and panasonic. Which coincidentally are now merged into one company. Its a big circle jerk it seems, but quality wise, they all seem to be on equal ground.
    The china knocks off are IMR, or can be ordered anyhow.
    I steer clear of trust and ultrafires. Redilast is also rebranded sanyo btw.
    You are making a blanket statement that can easily be confused.

    You may know what you are talking about, but no one else does.

    It seems like you are saying any battery is just fine.

    Yes panasonics are good and sanyos are good, but just generally chinese knock offs??? i don't think so.

  3. #13

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    bargain batteries are usually recycled cells of questionable quality

  4. #14

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    That was the wierd part about it all. Talking with uniq about the ones sent with the LT's, (not all china batts)
    Im saying Im confident in 5 models- 1- panasonic, 2- sanyo, 3- AW's, 4- redilast,
    5- those flat tip ones sent with the LT's, in that order (if their verified IMR). But Im thinking all 5 come from sanyo/panasonic. Main point is "made in japan" And all run about 10 bucks for the 18650 2000-ish mah IMR, and $13 for the protected 3000 mah.
    If ya troll around some good flashlight forums, you find a wealth of info on these batts we use. You also see how they spend way too much money for a fuckin flashlight.
    Last edited by TheBIgChief; 03-30-2012 at 01:11 PM.

  5. #15

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    The USA market will most likely just venture on over to carrying AW as we have, and Panasonics will hit the market soon enough. I doubt it will go full time beyond that- aside from the batts uniq sends with their kits- which arent known to cause issues by any means. I just dont see those getting sold on the side, or selling if their offered due to lack of consumer confidence. That one facet is what drives all battery sales- who is all the vets saying is worth a shit...

  6. #16
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    I just wanted to note that Panasonic has come out with a button top high drain battery, don't know if you guys have seen this yet or not, but her ya go.
    http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-c...i-ion?mobile=0

  7. #17
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    Bert is correct about the fact that IMR are recommended because they are high drain.
    Boosted mods can pull very hard on batteries.
    Think about it... if your 3.7V battery is drained to 3.4V and you want 5V out of it on a 2.4ohm atty, it has to suck the shit out of the battery to give the power you want. Cheapo batteries (and even some decent ones) can have low C ratings and they get very stressed in these applications. (which can cause crappy lifespans or even failures)
    You really need to look at the specs on whatever battery you think you want, and then decide if it can handle the draw.
    Certain panasonics and other higher quality cells can handle this draw.

    The provari has a nice feature, though, where is shuts off if it senses that the battery voltage is under like 3.0V?
    I've seen junk batteries go from 4.1V to 2.2V in a matter of minutes when being pulled on hard by a boosted/regulated mod. I just recently had a bad unprotected battery that would do this. I could actually watch it on a DMM slowly bounce back from 2V to 3.8V over the course of a few minutes.
    This is a dangerous battery.

  8. #18
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    The provari shuts off at 3.3 I believe, maybe 3.4, I couldn't tell you because I usually pull a bat at about 3.6 or 3.5 at the latest.

  9. #19

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    Most units are triggered to shut down at 3.4 volts I think- just as a general concensus. I try to swap out at 3.5 or 3.6. Not sure why, I just like to stay in an overly broad safety realm i guess.
    Ive seen some AW's advertised as 12 or 15 amp limit, which makes no sense ( with sanyo and panasonic being 10 amp). With how we use em, we hit 3-4 amp tops, but generally 2-2.5. So I figure 10 amp is good limit, and better when swapped at 3.6 volts. Keep them well within their designed range. Im not here to stress test these batts in a GG or LT, I just like knowing they can well handle whatever load I put on em.
    The lack of Button top hasnt given me issues as of yet...but Im sure there is some mod out there that it will. Guess I need to go give the reo a check.

  10. #20
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    had my provary for about a year now. tried a few different bateries... the high current IMRs work the best
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